Fundamentals of Basic Pattern Drafting- Mastering the Basics in Fashion Design

What is Basic Pattern Drafting?

Basic pattern drafting is a fundamental technique in the field of fashion design and garment construction. It involves the creation of a pattern, which is a template that represents the shape and size of a garment. This process is crucial for ensuring that the clothing fits properly and is constructed with precision. By understanding the basics of pattern drafting, designers and sewers can create garments that are both aesthetically pleasing and functional.

The first step in basic pattern drafting is to gather the necessary measurements. These measurements are taken from the human body or from a dress form, and they include the bust, waist, hip, shoulder, sleeve, and length. Once the measurements are obtained, they are used to create a basic block, which serves as the foundation for all subsequent patterns.

Creating the Basic Block

The basic block is a fundamental pattern that can be modified to create a wide variety of garments. It consists of a front and back piece that are joined at the shoulder and side seams. The basic block is created by drafting the following elements:

1. Shoulder seam: This is the line that runs from the top of the shoulder to the edge of the collar.
2. Center back: This is the vertical line that runs down the center of the back piece.
3. Center front: This is the vertical line that runs down the center of the front piece.
4. Side seam: This is the line that runs from the bottom of the shoulder to the hem of the garment.
5. Waistline: This is the horizontal line that runs around the narrowest part of the waist.
6. Hemline: This is the horizontal line that runs at the bottom of the garment.

Once the basic block is drafted, it can be used to create a variety of styles, including dresses, tops, bottoms, and outerwear.

Modifying the Basic Block

One of the key benefits of basic pattern drafting is the ability to modify the basic block to create a custom fit. This is done by adjusting the pattern’s size, shape, and proportions. Common modifications include:

1. Adding or removing length: This can be done by lengthening or shortening the hemline, sleeve, or bodice.
2. Changing the waistline: This can be done by raising or lowering the waistline to create a higher or lower waist.
3. Adjusting the bust: This can be done by adding or taking away width at the bust to achieve a better fit.
4. Modifying the hip: This can be done by adding or taking away width at the hip to create a more comfortable fit.

By mastering the art of modifying the basic block, designers and sewers can create garments that cater to a wide range of body types and preferences.

Tools and Techniques

Basic pattern drafting requires a set of tools and techniques to ensure accuracy and efficiency. Some of the essential tools include:

1. Pattern paper: This is a durable, crease-resistant paper that is used to draft patterns.
2. Pattern rulers: These are specialized rulers with scales and notches for measuring and marking pattern pieces.
3. Tracing wheels and carbon paper: These tools are used to transfer the pattern to fabric.
4. Scissors and chalk: Scissors are used to cut the pattern pieces, while chalk is used to mark the pattern on the paper.

In addition to these tools, designers and sewers should also be familiar with various drafting techniques, such as the use of grid systems, proportional scaling, and the application of dart and pleat principles.

In conclusion, basic pattern drafting is a vital skill for anyone interested in fashion design and garment construction. By understanding the principles and techniques involved, designers and sewers can create garments that are tailored to fit individual body types and reflect their unique style. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced designer, mastering the basics of pattern drafting will undoubtedly enhance your skills and creativity in the fashion industry.